Gorkova Korfezi to Bozukbuku
Due to a technological casualty I have no slideshow (can anyone tell me why I cannot get flashplayer on iPad, apparently necessary for my weebly photo download or upload). And I haven't worked a way to get photos onto iPad without a computer so it is iPhone photos from now
Anyway to view photos cut and paste this link, click on Turgitreis to Bozukbuku, and click onto photos to enlarge. Good luck with that
Yes we are still afloat and quite a bit of water has gone by. At last communication we were in the beautiful harbour of Degirmen which has a lovely cove in it called English harbour. This whole area was used by the Royal Navy to take refuge from the German submarines. Having had our very own brief encounter with a Turkish sub marine near Marmaris we get the chills thinking of what it must have been like to be pushed out of the safe haven of English Harbour to the firing line.
Our pilot guru, Rod Heikell, a good New Zealander who has made a life of sailing the Med writing up guide books for the benefit of e rest of us, had a bay called Amazon Creek written as a beautiful bay and seemed safe but when we got there we found it to be very open and not at all interesting so we settled at east bay in Yedi Adalari where we again experienced the arrogant might of the gullet fraternity. We were coming into the little bay having already sited our perfect anchor spot when a gullet further out sent in his tender who seemed satisfied with the corner spot but when the gullet came in it was almost as though he saw the little kiwi sail boat and said "let's ruin their plans and take that spot there instead", just swotting us aside like a flea. Well we moved to the corner space and I think enjoyed the top spot anyway....so there!!..bully boys. We had a nice evening although an eruption broke out on the yacht amongst its Turkish extended family. Nothing for it but to regard their noisy tantrums as our evenings entertainment.
We left in the morning and had a surprisingly nice sail back out of the gulf, not the expected direction of wind, stopping at Coketme. We had lovely Turkish folk on either side of us, one gave us figs, and on the other side the young father saw us having a gin in the evening and gave us some mint to go with it. Along the beach we watched 4 old ladies making Turkish carpets which was interesting, but we restrained ourselves from making any bold purchases
We stopped at another noisy bay of little interest so I have forgotten its name, except to say it took the lined up sun loungers and tiddly little straw brollies to the limit, how possibly could anyone enjoy a holiday like that, they all look like battery hens lined up waiting to lay an egg.
We had heard a lot about Turkitreis marina so we decided to pop in there. It was pretty flash alright. One day we took a dolmas ride to Bodrum but at 45 degrees we managed only the walk down to the harbour, a salad for lunch and back up to the dolmus station. Nothing else sufficiently grabbed our attention in the sweltering heat.
On the subject of dolmuses, I must write a letter to the editor when I get home..we could certainly learn a lot from the public transport system over here. In Tauranga our daft Council tendered the bus service out to GoBus who lug great enormous buses around town with 2 or 3 people on board. If they had little mini buses going more often maybe more people would use it, far too sensible an idea for our mayor or GoBus.
There had been a lot of murmur about high winds out in the Aegean so we reconsidered our plan to go way into Greece as had been our original loose plan. If anyone was likely to hit some heavy weather on the nose it would surely be us!! And when my wind guru and pocket grib indicated w wind spike in Datca we decided to have another day at Turkitreis and it turned out to be such fun. They have what they call 'the blue point' which is a bar at the end of the breakwater at the entrance to the marina where we lounge around and swim in the open sea. When we arrived there the sea looked ferocious and I couldn't imagine a dip in the water without being smashed against the rocks or at the very least missing the boarding ladder entirely. However when I saw a couple bobbing wildly up and down I decided that Joe and I were indeed up to the challenge. Well after our first emersion there was no stopping us. This was the best free adventure tourism and fun ride park we could imagine. In the trough of a wave it was well down before being lifted high into the air again. It was such fun.
Well off we set next day, with a feeling of freedom after confinement of marina, we had a nice sail down past Kos, in fact on the point beyond it was most vigorous and a reef was required, (making the main sail smaller, for the uninitiated) so we were beaming at the prospect of the same for our voyage right to Datca, but alas the inevitable happened and sails down and motor on. Datca was quite busy but we found a spot behind another kiwi boatwithChristine and Colin, with whom we enjoyed a meal with that evening on shore. We were a bit lazy and stayed put next day, enjoyed the market and we had to renew our Turkish papers which we do through an agent, which costs 200 Turkish lira or $140nz which is a bit hefty but unless one goes Into marinas they don't charge for anything else.
We then went to a gorgeous deep bay called Bencik (Benchick) where we sneered a glorious little corner with the land running along one side of Wrighteau and a reef coming out the other, so we could not have close neighbors and enjoyed our own private swimming area behind us. We were enjoying it so much we stayed 3 nights there, unheard of for us
From there we went into Marti Marine, we decided to fuel up and also to have our "black tank" (like our septic tank) pumped out, as they are supposedly strict on this in Turkey. We have a blue card, like a credit card, and supposedly the authorities can swipe it and see if we have had it emptied by the correct procedure so we try to do it at least once in our sailing sojourn. The funny thing is, these facilities actually don't like to perform this procedure much, surprise surprise, and after going to these lengths we then discovered that their card machine was "kaput" so all that and our blue card is still without entry for 2013. We had a couple of nights in the marina because it is truly like a resort, in fact it has apartments there for about 160 euro per night as a minimum, and we pay 50 euro a night and don't have to lug a single suitcase up the stairs. I even got chatting to a big wig marketing lady there, Jondash, who took a bit of a shine to us, so pretty and professional and she looked into one of their other establishments for us to stay when we have our little road trip. We shall see.... But she was nice and helpful just the same. We swam and relaxed resort style for a couple of days before heading away again
From there we mosied down to Dirsek where we noticed the onslaught of August holiday makers. The bay was quite full but we managed a little spot in beside a couple of Russians. We had a very pleasant night, but who could have foreseen the disaster which would come to pass in the morning. We usually start the day with breakfast listening to ZB radio back home, and we listen to this on my Apple laptop, usually down bellow. When I go for a swim I usually make a clean entry dive with no splash. So this morning I said it was much too beautiful a day to be down below, so laptop up top, usual scrummie breakfast of fruit and yogurt, and about to set off to Greece, Symi, "one little dip, it's so hot and all" this is when I was undecided as to whether to dive or slip quietly in, so I crouched down and, well dashed if I know what I did, but it resulted in a few drops landing on said computer. less than a minute later Larry Williams was silenced, I still can't believe just a couple of drops could have such a devastating effect. This changed our game plan entirely. We headed North not South, to Selimiye, again we noticed the boating numbers had swelled dramatically, but we found a space on the marina quay and onto the dolmus to Marmaris. We darted about pillar to post only to discover that Steve Jobs didn't do a very good marketing job in Turkey, as the same message every turn was that Istanbul only place to service Apple, and that would take 1 to 2 months. Feeling very deflated we decided to get Internet for iPad or phone but I had omitted to bring passport to town. Breathe deeply and off we go. Back onto dolmus, an hour back to Selimye, collect passport and I returned to Marmaris alone this time. Of course nothing is straight forward, all sorted I only had to catch the bus back, but this made me nervous as had I missed this one at 7.30 the next one wasn't until midnight. So I checked with the driver as I alighted the dolmus that he would collect me from the same place at 7.30. Yes yes yes. When the time came he sailed on past flailing his arms leaving me in a state if confusion and high anxiety. Fortunately a nice Turkish man could see my confusion and directed me to the other side of the road, as you will understand by now I have had a lot of experience with dolmus trips and this was completely unorthodox and a miracle I ended up on it at all. We celebrated our disaster of a day at a gorgeous family run restaurant, and then completely shattered and dolmussed out fell into bed.
So, back onto the horse, off to Symi we went. It was nice to return to Symi, it is so beautiful, preserved by law, or bylaw, it is a real gem, but I think more manic and busy than I remember it to be. We had a quick catch up with Mark Thomas and co from Tauranga who had had their night there, and lord knows, one night is as much as one can take. It is like a washing machine in the harbor, and the carnival atmosphere carries on into the wee hours. But I must say we did have fun. We found a very popular taverna, we had a meal and half a litre of red wine and it was only 25 euro. We then strayed up a little ally on our way back to Wrighteau where there was music of our generation and the waitress serving us was Latvian, actually she told me they were all Latvian. They were paid 40 euro per night (10pm to 5am) but cash in hand and accommodation paid but she didnt sound that enamored with it all. She spoke such wonderful English, one wonders what the prospects are for a Latvian girlanyway we were enjoying the atmosphere, so we had a cocktail each and spent the same amount as the whole dinner cost. Actually it was funny returning to Greece, the things we had forgotten about came flooding back. The constant noise and busyness, ferries in plenty, rushing hither and tither and along with tripper boats all with no manners charging around causing dangerous wash. The rudeness of some, the harbourmaster, admittedly I did make the small (or not so small) blue of blurting out Teshekular, the Turkish thank you to the arch enemy Greek. There was no going back after that, a quick efary sto didn't cut the mustard, he was just furious from then on. But to be fair I noted he was very rude and big altercations with many. Then there is the subject of the port police, and the others. First stop is the Police, not quite sure why they have to be involved but stamped to billio there, photocopy everything possible, then customs, then a long walk around to port police. They command such a presence in Greece, so many of them adorning the office, but it is questionable what they all do. In Turkey once we have checked into the county we see no more of them, just go and enjoyed pottering around their bays and harbors. And one other one was how barren we were reminded of how it is in Greece. Just all rocky.
So after our entertaining and busy night we moved around to Pethi bay, in hindsight we should have gone to the next bay, but we met some New Zealanders who had spent 3 nights there so it sounded ok. But there was some awfully dubious anchoring there keeping us on our toes, a big BIG ship came in, and a huge generator carried on through the night to sustain it. An Italian parked himself very cosily beside us, so it was no surprise that at our 6am start we found his anchor chain clinging securely to our anchor as it came up, so out came our Rod Heikell hook, whereby one hooks the chain then lowers our anchor then trips the hook and chain drops, anchor up and journey to proceed. This works particularly well when the operator presses windlass 'down' not 'up', and before we could really show off our professionalism in this department señor was awake and rowed out to remedy the problem he had been the architect of in the first place So it was with some relief to move on from that, plan to go to the crater island of Nisoros, but we vowed to sail, or at least not go into unpleasant conditions this day, If we had any doubts about the poor luck following us in the wind/sailing stakes today secured it. We had a lovely sail for a couple of hours before it turned on the nose and picked up strength in wind and sea, so we decided lovely sailing back to Panormitis, turned, set sail and looking forward to a nice day sailing. Can you believe the wind changed direction and strength to laugh at us once again. We persevered and sailed right to Panormitis, a beautiful closed bay with a large monestary. Next day we took a dolmus ride to repeat the whole port police procedure, buy some bacon, (we had been told by quite a few that shopping was so much cheaper so we set about finding this shop which didnt impress value wise really, though we did find the gin was very competitive, and nice to have some bacon) and have our last Gyros, then a perfect sail back into Turkey, to some quietness.
Another thing we have noticed this year is the amount of gullets who have had sails up, it must be a sign of the economic times and the need to spend less lira and euros on fuel